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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.